M2B Ingredient Spotlight
Argan Oil
We are in Morocco. Approaching Essaouira’s sandy-colored dunes, passing olive groves and grazing donkeys, this is where you notice signs announcing women-run argan cooperatives: Argan Co-Op, Women’s Argan Collective. Argan oil, made from the nuts of the argan tree, which grows almost exclusively in this region. The oil, which is said to have restorative and age-defying effects, has become one of the latest miracle ingredients in the beauty industry.
High in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, it is believed to help all sorts of skin conditions: dry skin, acne, psoriasis, eczema, wrinkles. Moroccans slather it on their skin, hair, nails and even their babies.
If you pull over to a cooperative, the Berber women — and it is only women who make argan oil — will often invite you in to watch them work. In most of the cooperatives, the older village women sit in the courtyard and work as the younger bilingual girls walk you around, giving a tutorial about the process. (Pull over too many times, though, and be prepared to hear all about the process again. And again.)
The nuts, which look like a cross between a walnut and an almond, are picked out of the fruit of the squat, gnarled argan trees that dot the yellow hills above Essaouira. Depending on the season, there might be goats up in the branches, munching on the fruit. The nuts are roasted on an open flame over a large steel drum, like chestnuts, which brings out their distinctive peppery aroma.
The women first crack the shells with sharp stones. They then place the kernels between two Flintstone-size slabs of rock, grinding them into a brown paste, which resembles chunky peanut butter. The paste, kneaded by hand to extract the oil, transforms into a solid hunk and is sent to nearby factories, mainly in Agadir, where more oil is extracted by a press. Some is made into soaps, creams and shampoos, but it is the pure oil that is most sought after.
The souks of Essaouira are filled with little jars of argan oil that have suspicious locals rolling their eyes. “Vegetable oil,” they’ll warn you. (Check the bottle for provenance; if it has a cooperative’s name on the label, it’s probably authentic.) The best way to find the real deal is to follow the smell of roasted nuts that will lead you to the cooperatives.
Because the extraction of argan oil is a labor-intensive task perfected by the Berber women native to the area (it takes a few days to produce one liter), the government has established a fund for the cooperatives. . Women from the villages nearby are invited to work half days (so they can still tend to their families) in exchange for fair wages and good working conditions. Eventually, the cooperatives should pay for themselves. UNESCO has designated the 10,000-square-mile argan-growing region as a biosphere reserve.
Argan oil is rich in essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, a precursor of vitamin E giving its moisturizing, strong antioxidant and skin anti-aging properties. Long observed empirically, the beneficial effects, moisturizers and restructurability of argan oil have since been confirmed and explained scientifically. By its content of essential fatty acids (EFAs), argan oil makes it possible to correct deficiencies that inevitably occur with age, and which result in dehydration and loss of skin elasticity.
Argan oil is also rich in tocopherols (vitamin E) at the rate of 700 mg per kilogram, or more than twice as much as olive oil (320 mg / kg). The latter, as well as polyphenols also contained in the argan oil, are natural antioxidants and anti-free-radicals.
Argan oil benefits summary:
For centuries, Argan oil has been used locally for therapeutic and cosmetic purposes, today the whole world is appreciating this oil.
Argan oil is highly rich in essential fatty acids oleic and lineoic acids (47%) as well as in vitamin E (60-90mg/1OOg) , which positively boost our skin regenerating capabilities.
Essential Fatty Acids in Argan oil repairs and protects the skin against the elements, preventing premature aging.
Argan oil is rich in antioxidant-rich natural vitamin E.
Argan oil protects muscular degeneration.
Argan oil softens and revitalises the skin, by rehydrating and giving the skin its lost youthful elasticity.
Argan oil is also highly effective as a relief of scars and scar tissue. Argan oil stimulates intracellular oxygenation, neutralizes free radicals and protects the soft tissue. Its skin application restores the skin and increases the nutrient content of skin cells
.Some information extracted from an article appearing in The New York Times 1 June 2008
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